Nestled approximately fifteen kilometers from Bhubaneswar, the capital of Odisha, is the picturesque settlement of Pipili. Renowned for its craft, Pipili is famous for the applique technique, a distinctive art form. This small town, located roughly 40 kilometers from Puri, Orissa, is a hub of creativity and craftsmanship, with the Pipli applique work standing out as one of the region’s most cherished traditions.
Like many other crafts, the origin of Applique work is rooted in the rituals of Shri Jagannath Temple, Puri. In the old days, Pipli craftsmen used to make canopies, banners, umbrellas and trasa (fans) for Rath Yatra festival held in Puri’s famous temple. But as the craft’s popularity spread far and wide through the pilgrims of Puri, the craftsmen started making other decorative and utility items also. The use of all these products are associated with the religious ceremonies of Lord Jagannath. So it can be concluded that this art form ascribes its origin to the Jagannath cult. Patronized by kings and nobility of Orissa, applique work at one time had reached the artistic heights of excellence.
Applique is a French technique that basically cuts up various coloured fabrics which are then sewn to the surface of another foundation fabric. But essentially it has now developed into a needlework technique in which smaller pieces of fabric materials like small mirrors and other forms of embroidery are sewn onto a bigger piece of the cloth to create.
Appliqué is basically the art of hand stitching stylised and bold cloth designs with a process of cutting coloured cloth into shapes of animals, birds, flowers leaves gods, goddesses and other decorative motifs and stitching them on a piece of base cloth. Frames made from bamboo, wood or metal wires are used to fabricate the craft pieces into the required shape.
On one hand, the village showcases the intense involvement of the men, and especially the women, in the applique production. Machine stitching has also caught up with the artisans of this town which is a proud achievement for these workers. But the people of this town are mostly proud of their handcrafted achievements because that is the purest way of keeping their art heritage alive.
The traditional appliqué items are mainly used during processions of the deities in their various ritual outings. Items like umbrella, Tarrasa – a heart-shaped wooden piece covered by appliqué cloth and supported by a long wooden pole and Chandua – an umbrella shaped canopy are usually seen during the processions. Another popular item is a sort of frill which is used as a border to canopies and also independently as a decorative piece. Traditionally, Applique craftsperson used four basic shades – red, green, black & yellow to create a bold, beautiful ad striking combination of colours.
In modern pipli applique work motifs used consist of stylized representations of flora and fauna as well as a few mythical figures. Of the more common of these motifs are the elephant, parrot, peacock, ducks, creepers, trees, flowers like lotus, jasmine, half-moon, the Sun and Rahu (a mythical demon who devours the sun).
Flat design are first cut from cloth and then superposed on the base cloth in a predetermined layout and sequence. The edges of the motifs are turned in and skillfully stitched onto the base cloth or stitched by embroidery or without turning as necessary. Craftsmen use straight stitch, blind stitch, satin stitch or buttonhole stitch for attaching the pieces of cloth. These pipli applique work is done on the different types of fabrics such as cotton, velvet, organdy and satin.
Pipili is a compelling stopover for tourists on the golden circuit of Puri-Konark and Bhubaneswar. The demand of Pipili Applique earlier came from orders for use in temples constructed by wealthy families in the State. The craft form has transformed in the last few decades as the focus moved from ritualistic usage to utility items. Designs and patterns developed using Pipili Applique are widely used for home furnishings and dress materials also.
Pipili Applique is marked by its versatility and ability to reincarnate itself with changing times while retaining its basic characteristic.
Appliqué items are affordable, easy to carry, lightweight and require very little space when folded and packed. This attribute coupled with the fact that these pieces are mostly utility items easily make Pipili Applique one of the most popular souvenirs for visitors to Odisha.
Tools and Raw Materials
Needles: A very fine slender piece of polished metal with a point at one end and a hole or eye for thread at the other, used in sewing.
Threads: A long, thin strand of cotton, nylon, or other fibers used in sewing or weaving.
Cloth: Different types of cloths are used to make a applique cloth
Scissors: Tool used for cutting paper, cloth, etc.,
Sewing Machine: Machine with a mechanically driven needle for sewing or stitching cloth.
Marker: It is used to draw the design patterns on cloth
Mirrors: They are used in process of embroidering of applique work.
Metal Pieces: They are used in process of embroidering of applique work.
Making Process
This exquisite craft is usually practiced on red, purple, black, yellow, green and white fabric. The craftsman first prepares the base material in the shape of square, rectangle, and circle or oval which forms the background for the pieces of art. Over the patched and stitched material embroidery design will made using needle by different coloured threads and mirrors. The metal or mirrors are added to the cloth only after that the embroidery is stitched. The actual grace of appliqué craft lies in its intricate stitches namely, bakhia, guntha, turpa, chikan and other very delicate and esoteric embroidery techniques. Small mirrors and bright metal pieces are used to enhance its beauty. After the material is embroidered with a traditional design, the borders are then stitched.
The designing of the lampshade begins with cutting coloured cloth into different shapes and stitching them together to make an applique cloth. Mirrors are stacked onto it using simple stitching process. Many artisans even add borders and other forms of embellishment to enhance the beauty of the lampshades.
A simple stenciling of the size of the lampshade required and then cutting the shape out on a cardboard paper. The stencil outlines are then traced out neatly over the cloth. The important thing to note is the artisans’ need to preserve the cloth because they believe in minimal wastage and try to rescue and recycle as much cloth and material as possible. The traced outlines are then cut onto many identical layers of cloth which then are bundled together. This makes it easy to store and use them when required.
Lampshades usually make use of a coarse and low cost material cloth onto which the appliqués are then machine stitched in simple and decorative patterns. Then the artisans make use of wooden or iron rings to mould it into the shape of the lampshade.
These lampshades are usually prepared in bulk because they are extensively used during festivals. But since they have even picked up a market in many cities, they are constantly in demand. This has meant a steady means of employment for many men and women in the town of Pipli. Amazingly, in lampshades alone, over 1000 designs and patterns are available.
Products
Applique work forms a major part of the handicrafts of Orissa. The applique work is a piece of art that is done by cutting beautiful pattern on a piece of cloth. Patterns depicting flowers, animals, etc. are made, which are then stitched beautifully on another piece of cloth. In Pipli, one can come across rows of shops flaunting the applique work. The applique work includes bed covers, letter cases, cushion covers, wall hangings, pillow covers, bed sheets, hand bags, canopies, garden and umbrellas. The price starts from INR.100. And varies according to the size and design adapted in the applique work.
